That Time I Accidentally Hiked 19 Miles: Tales from the Tetons
The time I accidentally hiked 19 miles because of poor math and timing is one of my favorite stories from my cross-country road trip in 2019.
How in the world did I manage such a ridiculous mistake? Let’s start from the beginning.
My friend recommended this one hike in the Tetons called Cascade Canyon. She told me there were epic views of the mountains without needing any technical skills, as I am no mountaineer and my northeast body tends to struggle with high elevation. As I was researching trail details the night before I kept coming across conflicting information. Was the hike 3, 4.5, or 9 miles? Where exactly was the trailhead? I was finally able to figure out that the trail did start a little further from the parking lot that required a ferry across Jenny Lake. Ah, problem solved! That must have been the confusion. The 9 miles must have been if you walk to the trailhead from the parking lot.
So I get up early and bring only a couple snacks and a moderate amount of water for my 4ish mile hike. When I start walking to Jenny Lake I soon learn that the ferry does not start until 10, and it’s currently 9:00. There is a big map posted and I try to estimate the mileage. Hm, I think that’s around 2 miles! It will be an easy hike around the lake and I’ll get there in no time at all. Better than waiting an hour for the ferry. (Mistake #1).
The hike was a bit longer, a casual 3.5 mile pre-hike before my actual hike. The terrain was mostly flat but I felt the inclines as I was trying to jet over to my actual trailhead. However, if I had taken the ferry I would have missed the beautiful view from Inspiration Point and a waterfall. Definitely worth it!
I eventually get to the Cascade Canyon trailhead and set off on my original hike. The sign says 4.5 miles. What I later learn, is that many signs and maps out west only list one direction, as opposed to roundtrip. (Mistake #2).
As I hike through the canyon, in awe of the beauty with the Sound of Music playing in my head, I get lost in my usual hiking groove. My thoughts are a mix of amazement, reflecting on life, and thinking about what would happen if I saw a bear. I had just bought and learned how to use bear spray, but wasn’t super confident in my ability to handle the situation. I eventually hear someone behind me, and as a solo woman traveling my instinct to socialize is usually a mix of a love of talking to strangers and also leave me alone. Eventually, this guy shouts out to me.
“Hey, you! Hey! There’s a moose over there".”
I stop and we watch the moose from the trail. We start to talk and decide to continue hiking together. I learn that his name is Andrés and he’s from Colombia. He has been traveling around the US for a part-work part-fun exploration of the states, and is currently here with some friends. They had started the morning trying to hike Paintbrush Canyon but the snow was up to their hips so they had to turn around. His friends were done adventuring after that but he was in the Tetons to hike and found a new trail. We share travel stories: I tell him all about my road trip and he tells me about his trip in the US. When he learns I used to somewhat be able to speak Spanish he tries to encourage me to talk to him in his language. I fail, miserably.
He took the ferry across Jenny Lake to the trailhead, and has a much bigger hiking goal: to hike to Lake Solitude and South Forks. Lake Solitude is in one direction from Paintbrush Divide, the end of Cascade Canyon, and South Forks is in another. He tries to convince me to join him, and I tell him that I really want to take the ferry back. He tells me the last one is at 4:00 pm and he’s probably just going to hike back. So let’s see, I think to myself, how many miles is this turning out to be? Definitely not 4.5. I’m not really sure how many miles I hiked this morning. And it’s how far to Lake Solitude? Cause I would at least go there. Let’s see, it’s 12 right now? If the hiking stays pretty easy then I’m sure it will be okay. (Mistake #3).
For some reason, numbers just weren’t making sense in my mind. And I’m pretty decent at math!
My travel brain and love of spontaneity take over and I decide to join him for the hike to Lake Solitude. We were hiking pretty fast and it was only noon. What’s another 2 miles? And our conversation continues. He takes videos of our journey, narrating and eventually introducing me to the camera. He does not use social media, they are just for his own memories. We both love documenting moments, and throughout the hike we take each other’s pictures. And there were the most epic views on this hike! Incredible shots of the Tetons and all their glory, so for that I am really thankful.
If I hadn’t met him I would have missed so much.
Our hike into Lake Solitude was like hiking into winter. We gradually gained elevation and became surrounded by a snow dusting. It got cloudy and cold. Luckily, I had at least managed to bring layers. When we got there we were met by a group of people, one of which had just jumped into the water. We both decide we are not up for it, and instead eat another snack. Andrés shares some of his food with me as I did not bring enough for the expedition this day was turning into.
We take pictures, and I look at the time. 2:00 pm. It starts to dawn on me that something is not right in our timing. Wait, how many miles had we hiked? Was that 2 miles one way? Why did I keep getting different numbers? When we leave, I realize I have to book it if I want to catch the next ferry back. (Mistakes, realized)
He tries to convince me again to South Fork, but I tell him that this whole adventure is enough in mileage for me and I really want to try to catch the ferry. When we get to Paintbrush Divide, I give him my number and email. He says he’ll text me on Whatsapp, but I never hear from him again. Such is life while traveling.
I fly back to Jenny Lake. I am going fast and the miles of the day are starting to catch up with me, I can feel them in my ankles, feet, and legs. Usually my feet don’t hurt when I’m hiking, but big mile days are different. When I reach the junction at Jenny Lake the sign says 1 mile to the boat launch if you go left and the Jenny Lake parking lot if you go right. It is 3:50 pm. I think for a moment. I could go as fast as I possibly could and still might not make it, and then I would have to add 2 extra miles to the 3.5. Begrudgingly I turn right. (Mistake #4, or Acceptance).
The rest of the hike is a slog. Everything hurts, I’m hungry, and starting to feel dehydrated. In these situations, I never know if it’s better to go fast with more pain or to go slow and take more time. I switch back and forth between the two methods. My lips get chapped from being dehydrated and I’m thankful I have chapstick. I try to actually do the math in my head. Seriously, is this 15 miles? 17? I make it back to my car by 5:15 pm and chat about my day with other hikers in the parking lot. Some of them did the same trail or same parts of the trail, and when we talk mileage the numbers 18 and 19 get thrown around. I go back to my AirBnB, shower, and don’t feel fully human until I’ve devoured a burger.
Eventually, I look at the map and do the math: 19 miles. It was a challenging day and my body was in rough shape the next morning, but I’m also so thankful for the experiences and sights that it brought me. If you had asked me to hike 19 miles I would have said there’s absolutely no way I could do that, but by opening the door to a larger day hike, it has led me to do even more big mile days.
Because now, I know that I can.
